Monday, February 22, 2010

From Paro to Thimpu



Up bright and far too early we set off on our way to Thimpu via the Haa Valley.

This road took us over the Chele La Pass. At a height of 3988M it is the highest motorable road in Bhutan. Majestic views of mountains and valleys including the highest revered peak Jhomolhari covered with snow. Kila Nunnery, reputedly the oldest nunnery in Bhutan was founded in the 9th century as a meditation centre and 32 nuns are still in residence perched way up in the mountains. You wouldn't want to run out of essentials up there. I commented that there wouldn't be much more to do than meditate but Mindup gently said that they "might have boy friends" The lovely hotel that I stayed in last night was owned by a high ranking monk who is supported by many followers in the States especially. It seems that it is not at all unusual for monks to own property and with the money they help students according to Mindup.

Had lunch in the lovely traditional little town of Haa. The absence of traffic is surprising after just leaving Kathmandu. Each town has its protecting deities and stupas and more tales of Gods, demons and conquerors than I can keep sorted out. The sun shines daily but the mornings and evenings are still very cold.

Tonight arrived in the capital Thimpu where the 5th King lives just beside the main House of Parliament. It is small for a capital city and built of traditional architecture. There are no traffic lights in Bhutan at all but here there is a tiny police traffic cop waving his arms in a most unusual way almost dancing. The cars seem to understand him.

I am staying in a resort hotel above the town. Old and mainly of wood it is full of character. Again I am the only one in the dining room. It is definitely out of season. I am told that the other guests are too cold and are eating in their rooms. They are from India. The staff are gentle and lovely. Nothing is too much trouble. I actually have a living room and a bedroom and it is very large with a balcony overlooking the town and all its lights. Will put in a picture. The kind people have put a heater in each room and a thermos of hot water. There is a place for a traditional hot stone bath on the terrace. It is used just like an old "Fulach Fiadh" in Ireland where huge stones are heated in a fire and then put in a stone bath. I didn't want the staff to have to heat up the stones over a wood fire just for me but otherwise would have tried it out:)

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