Friday, July 24, 2015

CANGAS ONIS


SOME OF THE SPECIALTY SHOPS HERE ARE LOVELY  THEY MAINLY SELL CHEESE,

HAM AND EVERY KIND OF LENTIL AND DRIED BEANS.  THEY ALSO, OF COURSE,

HAVE THOSE TINS AND JARS OF OLIVES, SARDINES, ANCHOVIES AND ASPARAGUS

THAT SEEM TO BE SO BELOVED HERE.
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Wednesday, July 22, 2015

VALDEVINO


The beach here is so long and not at all full.  Have been enjoying a daily walk here.  It feels like several kms.  I find that the headland in picture looks a bit like Slea Head a place I love.


The "Slea Head" one

At the medieval fetival



TAPIA DE CASARIEAGO

The port

Getting ready to play the Gaitas



There was a festival on when I reached this town in Asturias.  It was dedicated to Carmen who seemed to be a version of the Blessed Virgin.  It goes on for a whole week.  The morning procession had already taken place when I arrived but still on the pavements were designs and pictures formed out of many beads and seeds that must have taken hours to form.
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By nightfall the children had rearranged the design and made their own




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My morning view

Tuesday, July 21, 2015

AN OUTSIDERS LOOK AT SPANISH LIFE


By now I've been in many parts of Spain and since I don't yet know the language I'm usually an observer.  The south has many tourists and different nationalities living there but since I'm inclined to go to villages and small cities I don't meet many people other than Spanish.  I didn't stay long in the south with the hoards of tourists and fancy resorts so I'm mainly in the north where it is also cooler.   For the past week I was the only foreign license plate in the camping area and in fact I didn't hear any other language than Spanish at the festival in the last town although there were crowds promenading day and night.  Here in this new camp I only see one Belgian motor home and all the rest are Spanish.
Main impressions are that they are great people for family life.  Daddy's push their children's prams and walk with their arms around their children.  They play ball games and joke around in the water.  The children go out with their parents on their evenings walks and visits to festivals and they do go out very late often leaving at 11 pm or midnight and returning in the wee hours.  The children definitely feel loved in the families I've seen.
The food here is a big disappointment for me.  Almost everything is meat and it's fried and served with chips and the tiniest salad.  There's no vegetables at all on the menu.  Almost all the menus look the same.  It's quite possible to get a 3 course menu for 10 euros in many places and that includes wine or water, even a bottle of wine for one person.  The food is cheap but I love crisp veg and fish that isn't deep fried.  All that fried food is telling on the Spanish figures.  There are many very ample young women strolling around.  They have that lovely tan skin so look better than stout people in other countries but they are really big often and of course a stout girl will be an even bigger woman.  Naturally  there are beautiful exceptions but I used to have a place in Spain years ago and can't help but notice how people have increased their girth even though they walk a lot and their main meal is at lunch time which is supposed to be the best time to have a full dinner.  In the tapas bars there's a terrific selection especially in the Basque areas but if one is not a bread eater there's very few that are not served on bread.  Of course Im generalising.
Cafe's here are kept busy.  Tables are in the open and there's always people sitting there having a beer, a cinzano or coffee.  It's very social and the men have grand old chats together the same as in Italy and other European countries that have good weather.
When there's music like at the many festivals all summer almost all of the middle and older age people get up in the squares and dance and they almost all dance really well with flair.  Lovely to see how spontaneous it is.
I'm close to a place that teaches surfing and sports to kids and the patience of the instructors is great to see.  They spend so much time helping little ones with their tight fitting wet suits joking all the time.



Lunch is obviously the main meal of the day and is not eaten until about 2.30 or 3 pm.  Shops have closed at 2 pm and won't open again until 5 pm.   Children are still out playing at 11 pm and people are strolling around when I go to bed around 1 a.m.  In between hours cafes and bars are full especially the tables outside.  Most sociable society enjoying a coffee, water and often a beer even early in the day.
There's probably loads more to add to this but that's it for today







Wednesday, July 15, 2015

THE PICOS DE EUROPAS



Yesterday I drove to Potes a very nice town overlooked by the majestic mountains of the Picos de Europas.  The views are absolutely wonderful especially early in the morning with the sun coming up above them and they are silhouetted against the blue blue sky.  There's a cable car going up the steep cliff face and many walks above.  Hardy walkers go up and walk to refugios and stay up there for days.
Many birds make their home up high so I saw vultures, ravens, choughs and eagles.
Potes




The road below and parking lot

CAMILLAS AND GAUDI HOUSE


I absolutely love the architecture of Antoni Gaudi and visited all the buildings in Barcelona designed by him and his wonderful Guell park there so I was delighted to be not too far away from one of his earliest designs in Camillas, north Spain.  It is a seaside resort with a lovely old section and great restaurants.  Like his later designs the house could have stepped right out of a fairy tale.  I wonder if Disney was a fan?


The man himself contemplating his work



SANTILLANA DEL MAR


I have lovely memories of this town from a visit over 30 years ago.  It has always attracted a lot of tourists but after the buses leave it becomes like an ancient place at night with all the cobble stoned streets and historic protected buildings.
Now I was there only during the day and it was crowded although still charming.




now who wouldn't want to have a pint here
  

CASTRO URDIALES


Castro is a lovely town with several beaches, a lovely promenade, wide streets except in the lovely windy old historic part of town.  The centre is overlooked by a majestic cathedral and old castle.  A great town for cycling, walks and swimming.  There's very nice cafes and shops, a grand place to spend some time especially as up here in the north it is not boiling hot like the south.












Thursday, July 9, 2015

Rioja Wine

Abel owns the Bodega Abel Estabas in Cordovin.  I had tasted his wine at Jose's so went there and it

was a pleasure to meet him.  He usually wears his Basque beret but not today.  He downs red and

white wine with ease.  A lovely man to buy from and share a glass or maybe three


A few days in DIMA

Escaping heat and back in Basque country I camped in the garden of Ruth and Jose's for a few days.  Peace and birdsong.  Lovely.  We went to a local sheep shearing festival, just a small one for the neighbourhood.  The festivals in the area mainly include BBQ of port and bacon served with lots of red wine of course and sometimes beer.  They also have an excellent Rose.


Even a woman shearer


Sunday lunch

LA RIOJA


I spent a lovely day driving around many of the little towns of this famous wine region.  Laguardia was especially quiet and built of a warm brick colour.  Of course this area is covered with vineyards and there are Bodegas everywhere on the wine street.  Almost all of them need a reservation to go on a tour and have a tasting.  The wine is excellent.


Laguardia

My lunch spot

Spanish men chatting


Later I went over to the famous Bodega of Marques de Riscal.  The architect was Frank Gehry and it is like a mini Guggenheim.  They produce an extraordinary volume of excellent Rioja wines.  Of course the tour included a tasting.

a few of the vineyards


the oldest part of the vineyard