KATHAKALI, the traditional form of story telling/dance, is fascinating. The performers train from an early age and no females need apply so men play all the feminine parts. The stories include the Ramayana and Mahabharata. I went early to view the making up which can take hours and is just as amazing as the performance. There are no words but the musical accompaniment builds up as a singer sings the story. Each eye movement and gesture conveys meaning and the actor demonstrates it before the performance.

KERALA, INDIA

ON THE ROAD AGAIN
4 Nov. ‘11

KERALA, in Sth India. Time to set off for my winter wandering season. I have long wanted to visit Kerala and its backwaters so decided to stop off there for a few weeks on the way to my home away from home in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Getting here does take a long while from Ireland. Arrived in to this tropical climate after train from Co. Kerry to Dublin, a flight from there to Heathrow and hours to wait and finally on to Delhi and four more hours before getting a plane down to Cochi in Kerala. Took a taxi over to Fort Cochin 1 hour away as buses in between stop at 6 pm and by now it was 8 pm. It was a ride of 1 hour so got to Beena’s Homestay around 9 pm but she had dinner waiting and smiles to go with it. Hooray. The house is fairly plain and rooms are basic but they have a bathroom in each with a cold water shower and the price is certainly right at 700 rupees a day with breakfast and dinner, (there’s almost 70 rupees in a euro and 47 in a dollar)

It is unbelievably humid and hot here. It’s an effort to walk in to town. Kerala has had many rulers including Portuguese, Dutch and British and it was the main port and the centre of the tea and spice trade. There are many old world buildings and warehouses right on the water. So far one of my favourite sights are the Chinese Fishing Nets, huge structures constructed out of Teak wood and Bamboo poles from the court of Kublai Khan, it seems they were first erected in the 1300s. 1 net is owned by 5 to 10 people and the nets are like a big ladle as they scoop the fish out of the water. The catch is then sold right there and they will cook it as you wait.

Kerala seems to have few really poor areas compared to the rest of India. The people are mainly very dark skinned with absolutely beautiful features and the children are gorgeous. Fathers here seem to spend a lot of time with their children, playing and gazing at them lovingly. Most people have beautiful smiles and they greet shyly and wave out of buses and boats. Children almost always say hello and it feels like a very gentle place.

Life here appears conservative and quiet especially in regards to going to bed early and alcohol is rarely seen. It is not on the menus in most places and when beer is served it is in a teapot or cup and so far only in a hotel. The streets are dark and quiet at night and there’s no rickshaws around so tourists have to go home early. Meals at the guesthouse are mainly composed of various curried vegetables like potatoes and peas or carrots, dal and coconut and maybe a small fish. Breakfast includes a ball made of wheat and coconut which is very dry and one can add either honey or the curry to spice it up. Drinks are water with tea or coffee to follow. Both Beena and her husband Sudi serve and are most kind. The picture at the top is of them and their beautiful grandchild who rules the household.

Our B&B overlooking the Bull Rock

Perfect Breakfast and oh the Views

It's the fun music festival time of the year again and here's a few pictures of one down in Allihies on the Beara Peninsula in honour of Michael Dwyer the great trad composer and whistle player and some from the Willie Clancy School of music up in Milltown Malbay, Co.Clare where the streets, pubs and sand dunes are filled with music. There are students there from all over the world to take classes in music, song and dance.

And the craic was had by all.

Barcelona, Spain

Spent a lovely, sunny week in Barcelona early in May, my first visit to that great city since the 70's when we had a summer apartment down on the Costa Dorada. Had a wonderful time strolling along the Ramblas again, full of life, mimes, flowers, fruit and the locals on their promenades. Oh the markets full of colour, fruit, nuts, people downing Cava and bars serving huge gambas, grilled sardines, bombas and their own specialties of the house.

How perfect to have a city with such fantastic architecture, with the long beaches right in the city, the almost nightly performances in the Palau de la Musica which has to be the lovliest theatre in the world, the old and young dancers performing their stately dances in front of the cathedral just as generations have done before them.

Leaving the warmth

Sunny Thailand has been left until
next Winter. Finished with outdoor dining, BBQs and sitting on the roof of the University watching the Art Movies. We have such a great bunch of pals there every minute is a good one. There was a big round of parties and farewells and now off on my own again.

Left for Ireland to pick up warm clothes and put on shoes again for the first time since Oct last.


Only stayed 1 night in Ireland before flying on to the States to stay with daughter Terry landing in Pittsburgh and driving on to snowy Erie. This is her smart little
Dachshund Buddy who gets almost lost in the snow drifts.
Settling in for nights of firelight, movies, Jeopardy and vino:) There's
a lot to be said for that too.

Plans are to ski on days when the sun comes out and the wind does not try to cut the nose off the face. First stop is the big library down on Lake Erie to stock up on a pile of books. GREAT

Huai Hom Village

This is a lovely clean little village in the North West of Thailand. The lovely woman with the leaves in her hand is the head lady and the woman sitting on the platform is her mother. Here a lot of the coffee for Starbucks is produced and excellent coffee it is and 100% Arabic.
Many ladies in these hilltribe villages smoke pipes and they work really hard.

There's bettle nuts drying and the white beans are actually coffee.

They also work hard here at weaving and sell their scarves and produce. The name of the village comes from the Hom leaf that the lady is holding in her hand, they use that to dye the natural wool.
Nearby is a village renowned for making silver. This young man is in his workshop where he is sizing rings we bought from him.

There are nice homestays here organised by the capable lady with the leaves in hand. Her name is Malee Wan and even the King of Denmark visited here and was impressed with their products so he set up a contract to buy from them and export to Denmark.

If any of you want to visit it is not far from Mae Sariang where guesthouses include the lovely River Bank Guesthouse, price around 800 baht/room, new and very clean or
Northwest Guesthouse. price around 300-400 baht/room which is not as up market but has a lovely owner who speaks English and serves excellent food.
We intend to go and have a homestay there next time among these friendly giggling people.

Images from Mae Sam Laep

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