Friday, November 18, 2011

KERALA, INDIA




ON THE ROAD AGAIN
4 Nov. ‘11

KERALA, in Sth India. Time to set off for my winter wandering season. I have long wanted to visit Kerala and its backwaters so decided to stop off there for a few weeks on the way to my home away from home in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Getting here does take a long while from Ireland. Arrived in to this tropical climate after train from Co. Kerry to Dublin, a flight from there to Heathrow and hours to wait and finally on to Delhi and four more hours before getting a plane down to Cochi in Kerala. Took a taxi over to Fort Cochin 1 hour away as buses in between stop at 6 pm and by now it was 8 pm. It was a ride of 1 hour so got to Beena’s Homestay around 9 pm but she had dinner waiting and smiles to go with it. Hooray. The house is fairly plain and rooms are basic but they have a bathroom in each with a cold water shower and the price is certainly right at 700 rupees a day with breakfast and dinner, (there’s almost 70 rupees in a euro and 47 in a dollar)






It is unbelievably humid and hot here. It’s an effort to walk in to town. Kerala has had many rulers including Portuguese, Dutch and British and it was the main port and the centre of the tea and spice trade. There are many old world buildings and warehouses right on the water. So far one of my favourite sights are the Chinese Fishing Nets, huge structures constructed out of Teak wood and Bamboo poles from the court of Kublai Khan, it seems they were first erected in the 1300s. 1 net is owned by 5 to 10 people and the nets are like a big ladle as they scoop the fish out of the water. The catch is then sold right there and they will cook it as you wait.

Kerala seems to have few really poor areas compared to the rest of India. The people are mainly very dark skinned with absolutely beautiful features and the children are gorgeous. Fathers here seem to spend a lot of time with their children, playing and gazing at them lovingly. Most people have beautiful smiles and they greet shyly and wave out of buses and boats. Children almost always say hello and it feels like a very gentle place.

Life here appears conservative and quiet especially in regards to going to bed early and alcohol is rarely seen. It is not on the menus in most places and when beer is served it is in a teapot or cup and so far only in a hotel. The streets are dark and quiet at night and there’s no rickshaws around so tourists have to go home early. Meals at the guesthouse are mainly composed of various curried vegetables like potatoes and peas or carrots, dal and coconut and maybe a small fish. Breakfast includes a ball made of wheat and coconut which is very dry and one can add either honey or the curry to spice it up. Drinks are water with tea or coffee to follow. Both Beena and her husband Sudi serve and are most kind. The picture at the top is of them and their beautiful grandchild who rules the household.





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