FORT COCHIN TO ALLEPPY

FERRY TO ALLEPPY

7 Nov. ‘11
Today I moved from Fort Cochin to Alleppy the centre of the backwaters and house boat region. It involved two rickshaws, a short ferry, a few hour bus ride and later a longer ferry to an island. It was fun although the buses honk almost without pause and when there’s no reason. The traffic is a bit chaotic with the driver passing without the least idea of what type of traffic is approaching around the corner. The short ferry cost 2 1/2 rupees and the long one 41 (there’s 70 in a euro)

It’s funny to look at the signs along the streets, a large hospital is named after it’s specialty – “Piles Hospital” there must be many troubled in that direction here as one sees special services for them offered frequently. Many many places are named after saints and there are bright, freshly painted statues at many corners and grottos. All the religions apparently live in harmony with the majority being Hindu and the rest Muslim, Catholic, Jain and Buddhist. This is one of the hundreds of Houseboats that ply all the large rivers around Alleppy. They are beautiful, expensive floating homes that have proliferated along with the tourist trade so that now there are over 1,500 causing pollution of the lovely backwaters. An overstay night or two on them with all meals served is one of the "musts" of a visit to this area. I didn't go so can't give any account of them but I stayed on the backwaters and took canoes and local ferries all through the small canals where these larger vessels cannot go.

kERALAN LAUNDROMAT

According to the Rickshaw driver this is a communal laundry, not to do one's own washing but all the dirty clothes, bedding etc from the guesthouses and hotels are brought here to be washed and ironed.

This iron seems very heavy and certainly isn't electric.

KERALAN ENGAGEMENT

I happened to go in to Santa Cruz Basilica just when there appeared to be a big wedding ceremony complete with crowds of guests, five photographers and lots of lights centered on the couple.

It became apparent that the catholics here celebrate an engagement in a big way.

The weddings must be very grand indeed

A relaxing cafe by the ocean, a nice place to have a coffee or lassi in Fort Cochin

A JEWISH community was set up here 2000 years ago and the Synagogue dates back to 1568. It is in the centre of the Spice Trade area known as Jewtown and the narrow streets are fun and picturesque.

Women stroll around wearing beautiful saris and scarves floating behind them or they sit sideways, demurely on a bike or motorbike while their man drives with the children in front of him. The women’s lustrous black hair is worn long often below the waist .The men here dress differently. They wear a long skirt like lunghi often in white but they fiddle with it constantly and most usually hitch it up half way and tie it loosely in front which looks a bit like a bulky nappie. It looks especially strange when they are cycling. They seem to have to arrange it again every few minutes and often there’s a big expanse of leg showing as they do so – same legs are frequently matchstick thin especially in old gentlemen. Spreading it out wide looks as if they are about to flash. The shortness probably suits the humid climate and many of them do not wear anything on top around work or the house.

KATHAKALI, the traditional form of story telling/dance, is fascinating. The performers train from an early age and no females need apply so men play all the feminine parts. The stories include the Ramayana and Mahabharata. I went early to view the making up which can take hours and is just as amazing as the performance. There are no words but the musical accompaniment builds up as a singer sings the story. Each eye movement and gesture conveys meaning and the actor demonstrates it before the performance.

KERALA, INDIA

ON THE ROAD AGAIN
4 Nov. ‘11

KERALA, in Sth India. Time to set off for my winter wandering season. I have long wanted to visit Kerala and its backwaters so decided to stop off there for a few weeks on the way to my home away from home in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Getting here does take a long while from Ireland. Arrived in to this tropical climate after train from Co. Kerry to Dublin, a flight from there to Heathrow and hours to wait and finally on to Delhi and four more hours before getting a plane down to Cochi in Kerala. Took a taxi over to Fort Cochin 1 hour away as buses in between stop at 6 pm and by now it was 8 pm. It was a ride of 1 hour so got to Beena’s Homestay around 9 pm but she had dinner waiting and smiles to go with it. Hooray. The house is fairly plain and rooms are basic but they have a bathroom in each with a cold water shower and the price is certainly right at 700 rupees a day with breakfast and dinner, (there’s almost 70 rupees in a euro and 47 in a dollar)

It is unbelievably humid and hot here. It’s an effort to walk in to town. Kerala has had many rulers including Portuguese, Dutch and British and it was the main port and the centre of the tea and spice trade. There are many old world buildings and warehouses right on the water. So far one of my favourite sights are the Chinese Fishing Nets, huge structures constructed out of Teak wood and Bamboo poles from the court of Kublai Khan, it seems they were first erected in the 1300s. 1 net is owned by 5 to 10 people and the nets are like a big ladle as they scoop the fish out of the water. The catch is then sold right there and they will cook it as you wait.

Kerala seems to have few really poor areas compared to the rest of India. The people are mainly very dark skinned with absolutely beautiful features and the children are gorgeous. Fathers here seem to spend a lot of time with their children, playing and gazing at them lovingly. Most people have beautiful smiles and they greet shyly and wave out of buses and boats. Children almost always say hello and it feels like a very gentle place.

Life here appears conservative and quiet especially in regards to going to bed early and alcohol is rarely seen. It is not on the menus in most places and when beer is served it is in a teapot or cup and so far only in a hotel. The streets are dark and quiet at night and there’s no rickshaws around so tourists have to go home early. Meals at the guesthouse are mainly composed of various curried vegetables like potatoes and peas or carrots, dal and coconut and maybe a small fish. Breakfast includes a ball made of wheat and coconut which is very dry and one can add either honey or the curry to spice it up. Drinks are water with tea or coffee to follow. Both Beena and her husband Sudi serve and are most kind. The picture at the top is of them and their beautiful grandchild who rules the household.

Our B&B overlooking the Bull Rock

Perfect Breakfast and oh the Views

It's the fun music festival time of the year again and here's a few pictures of one down in Allihies on the Beara Peninsula in honour of Michael Dwyer the great trad composer and whistle player and some from the Willie Clancy School of music up in Milltown Malbay, Co.Clare where the streets, pubs and sand dunes are filled with music. There are students there from all over the world to take classes in music, song and dance.

And the craic was had by all.