FAREWELL TO BHUTAN

FAREWELL TO BHUTAN
I am now retracing the same road back from east to west to reach the exit point from Bhutan. There is another one to Assam but that would be a round about way to reach my next destination of Sikkim in the north of India. Long days along the same roads of constant curves but this time did have lunch at a real local restaurant for once and it was really nice to be among the people here instead of some approved hotel alone or with tourists. The owner is a most congenial head of the family too who spoke English and grows medicinal herbs that he sells. Since it was warmer outside than inside the washing machine had been moved out and the days washing was done outdoors. The machine washes but it looks as if the rinsing must be done by hand so the sun was nice to warm the back. One of the main foods here is chili with everything so here it was really fiery.
I’ll put in a picture of the rather primitive loo there. I noticed that the locals just seemed to order a big plate of rice and a little bowl of chili to spice it up.
We spent a night in Thronsa where the girl who served was falling over herself to be really kind. She fixed us butter tea without us asking (I don’t really like it) and two different kinds of porridge for breakfast so that we could try Tibethan maize or wheat porridge. She told us that the owner and family took her in when she was very young and now they were her family although she had a family up in the mountains. I heard this kind of story very often. It seems that people who have some success often just take in children who live too isolated to have many opportunities in life and their parents are happy to let them go.
Back in the capital of Thimpu we went for a real coffee at real western prices but it was so good after all the Nescafe of the last two weeks. That night we went to a bar with several of Mindup’s nephews. The extended family here is really wide and they call each other brother/sister/cousin etc even when they are not really that close. The lads were about 18 and had just finished their school studies but few of the people here really take a drink so they celebrated with juice. There was Bhutanese Karaoke on and it was not loud at all and none of the people seemed self conscious about joining in.
Next day we drove on towards the border town of Puentsholing where there is actually only an arched gate between Bhutan and India but one has to go through formalities like stamping departure at one office and then going to Indian emigration with the visa at another – time consuming especially as it had to be done at 7 am. This is, of course, only for foreigners the two countries can go in and out as they wish but Bhutanese money, the Nu, is not accepted anywhere except Bhutan. We booked a shared jeep for the trip to Sikkim and left the car at Mindup’s sister’s house. His brother in law drove us around all the offices and to the jeep the next morning.
The difference between Bhutan and India was evident immediately. From 50 yards to the other side there was again heaps of trash, the concrete, dirt, bricks and general debris that is not present in Bhutan. The jeep was packed 4 in each row so we were well sandwiched for the curves ahead. Unlike India there are regulations in Bhutan that prevent overcrowding of vehicles whether private or public so there is none of the people on the roof and hanging on that one sees in India, Burma, Laos etc. It seems to me that the government in Bhutan lays down many rules that are not questioned by the people. It is sad to know that one will not be returning to this place of really lovely, pleasant, kind people with so much patience and inner strength and peace.

IN THE EAST OF BHUTAN

TASHIGANG AND THE EAST

This is an elderly very sweet nun who asked me to take her picture. She held on to my arm and we had to do several circumambulations of the monastery together. The monk said that she is about 60 years old but no one here knows their birthdays.
The others are cleaning the butter lamps

Bhutanese boy friends.

3 March ‘10
We’re on the way back to the border in the west with long drives along those high roads and hair pin bends. Snow has fallen since we last passed this way but already there are many more open Rhododendrons and Daphne in bloom, paper is made from the latter. I will leave Bhutan on the 6th for Sikkim.

The east was the most interesting part of the country for me. The people there rarely see a stranger and a group gather around quickly at each stop. The school children love to try their English and are full of smiles. Older people offer tea or coffee and everyone is very shy. There are many very poor people working on the roads. Women with children on their backs and other children beside them are sweeping miles of road with a broom or actually working in construction. Men building a house in one town are hauling concrete and sand in a sling tied to a long pole up to a second story repeatedly. See a picture of the labour intensive building methods. We passed high passes covered with prayer flags. It seems that the white flags are to honour the dead and the coloured ones are referring to contentment and happiness in the present life. Talking about the dead – Mindup and his family wanted to honour their father when he died 2 years ago and show him respect for his hard work and endeavors in educating them so the eight of them paid $900 for a ceremony that lasted 21 days. He said that the entire village does all the cooking and work for such an occasion, an important lama or Rinpoche comes and about 40 monks to lead the prayers and chanting. The Buddist teaching is most obvious in every day life here. People take responsibility for elderly relatives who move in to their home even if they are not really close kin. Young girls are adopted in to families and educated by them if they have little money in their own family. Bhutanese walk in and out of kitchens in private homes even if they don’t know the family and food is always available for drop ins even if it is very plain like just rice. Trucks are gaily painted with “Welcome. We Love our King. Take care,blow horn. No girlfriend no tension” and other messages that usually show kind thoughts or advice. Driving along we passed by a woman up on a very high road with no houses in sight and she was prostrating herself every step and was probably going to do so for miles. We later passed by a monk doing the same thing probably for merit or in reparation.
We stayed in Tashigang and visited some little villages around where women were weaving on very primitive looms outside their houses. This area is renowned for silk weaving. Their patterns are most work intensive. A panel for the Kira, the women’s dress takes 4 months to weave and costs up to $1000 so most women weave he houses to fix lunch for us so that I could try a real farmhouse meal. She was glad to do it and also gave us some local moonshine called Ara which is traditionally served with a scrambled egg in it which seemed very odd but “when in Rome do as the Romans do” etc so of course I had a go. Not bad at all.
There was an Archery game going on using home made bows with the men doing ththeir own clothes. Mindup asked a woman in one of teir little dance each time an arrow hit the target across a huge distance. It was a holiday as it was the last day of lunar New Year.
Houses here have painted designs on them including huge penises. This is said to promote well being, happiness and fertility.
One disturbing thing among the common practices is the chewing of the betal nut by so many which, of course, stains their mouth and teeth red. It is used a lot in Asia mostly by the hill tribes and elderly but here it is also used by young people. Ganga grows wild here but is forbidden by law and Buddism.

MONGAR
We were in Mongar yesterday for a visit to a ceremony that is going on there for a week. It was because of the earthquake in the east of the country and it took a long time to get the money together to have such a ceremony where a Reincarnation or Rinpoche is asked to come and preside over the event and it is attended by at least 1000 monks and thousands of people who all have to be fed for the duration. Everyone chants and prays and asks the Rimpoche for a blessing. It was organized by Mindups village and he personally gave $1000 towards the cost. The village is up too high to reach with cars so the event was held in the nearest town. The people setting it up were so weather worn, gentle and hard working. We were seated on two very nice chairs and offered tea and biscuits. The only ones seated. Everyone gathered around and those who could speak English tried to have a conversation. Yesterday we had a private blessing by the Rimpoche and he draped the traditional white scarf around my neck. I probably need it as a monk read my horoscope last week and it was only so-so. Mindups was not good so he has been trying to improve it by gaining lots of merit and doing good works. It looks as if all will be well for him however as he rolled dice in the monastery and turned up an eleven – a really good omen. We roll along in the car to his chanting at times, at other times he sings away and he just loves the tunes on my I pod and tries to lilt Irish music.

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BUMTHANG TO MONGAR

Bumthang to Mongar
This was the longest drive, about 8 hours 193 kms long and there is no restaurant in between, just tiny villages perched high up among the passes. It is one of the most spectacular drives in the country descending 3,200m. We crossed in to eastern Bhutan at a pass that is 3,780m. Unfortunately the day was misty so pictures probably will not show the show the winding roads and valleys so far below. Eastern Bhutan is much poorer than the west and the people here are very like the country people at home with weather beaten faces, simple houses and very very long distances between any type of settlement. All along the roads there are people who must have walked for many miles up and down tracks and trails with their babies in slings on their backs. Women work on the roads the same as men. There are often delays for rock slides and sometimes the guide has to move a large rock out of the way. There is just one road that runs across this country so when we return we will go the same way again. Have to say that is just fine with me. The roads are scary but the drivers are excellent and the brakes are good.Mindup had stocked up with a tiffin like container that fits in to a thermos so we had a picnic on our way with the usual red rice, chilies and soft cheese, meat, veg., dal and apple juice. It seems that we will drop back all the containers on our return trip. Flasks full of very hot water are always carried so that one can have a hot drink or tea on each trip

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PUNNAKHA TO BUMTHANG

Punnakha
We returned to the festival the next morning for a few hours to see the famous black hat dance and the masks along with many other dances. It seems the dancers train for years and that is their job so they travel to various cultural events including to Hawaii. Again at the festival even though the dancers costumes are magnificent it is the people and their faces that are the most fascinating. Today we were allowed to enter the gorgeous Dzong and see the wonderful Thondrol ot Thanka which is enormous in fact the biggest in the country. It was rolled up again by a veritable army of men and monks. I will squeeze in a picture of it. See left. All the images and scenes on it are embroidered.
Afterwards we drove along the most marvelous road to the Phobjakha valley which is one of the few homes of the Black necked cranes who migrate here from Tibet in Nov. They will leave in one week so again we were lucky to see them. On the way we saw so many birds and yaks especially Himalayan Gullion flying about overhead with a large wingspan. While viewing them we met with a group of teachers from Canada who are coming here to Bhutan, mainly to remote villages, to work for one year. Some of you may have read the book by Jamie Zeppa “between the Earth and the Sky” the story of her time here in that same capacity, The woman with this group was Nancy, a colleague of Jamie’s who is mentioned in the story. She has been here 20 years now directing the Canadian programme and it was fascinating to chat with her about Jamie, her son and the Bhutanese man she married. The whole group of us met up for dinner, a singsong and guitar playing last night. We stopped by Chendebji Chorten a lovely peaceful place that is a replica of Bodnath the famous stupa in Kathmandu. It seems that the shape of Bodnath was carved out of a potato and then copied here and used as a place for greeting dignitaries who visit. The whole drive is just wonderful between mountains and passes with gurgling rivers far down below. 25 Feb.’10. Today’s pass took us up to 3360M. The drivers here are fearless skirting the edges of roads. There are views of Mount Jomolhari (7360), Jichu Drakye(6989) and Kang Bum(6526) We had lunch in Trongsa in a Tower and visited an excellent museum there. I wish that I had been to Bhutan when I was young. Just imagining the treks up those mountains some of which last for 20 days. My guide Mindup leads those treks and also bicycle tours on all these roads. I have seen his pictures and it is unbelievable that one could have the stamina to cycle to these heights. They have to prepare very carefully for the treks and use first ponies to carry all the gear and later yaks as they reach very high ground. There are no villages, clear paths or any type of accommodation up there so every single thing must be carried. Now we have arrived in Bumthang, a very pleasant, clean little town. Because of the order that all architecture should be Bhutanese the towns look very much the same. Tiny shops selling only practical things like basins, jugs, pots, back packs, t shirts, blankets and large carry bags. No specialty shops like jewelry, opticians, little cafes, dress shops etc. One is certainly not tempted to go shopping for souvenirs except for, perhaps, an example of the local weaving or the traditional dress but even that is not prevalent as women usually make their own. If you look at the picture album, especially of the festival you can see the beautiful way the women dress in their Kira. Over the top is a short jacket called a toego. They look very elegant. It is compulsory for Bhutanese to wear national dress at school, government offices and at all special occasions. The men, of course, wear their Gho, a knee length garment in traditional, tartan like woven cloth. They wear a tight woven belt and carry most of their needs like a wallet, keys and belongings right above the belt which gives them a stout look around the waist. People here are very friendly with each other whether they have met before or not and are most helpful in every way.
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THIMPHU TO PUNAKHA

A typical sign giving advice against contacting HIV and avoiding alcohol

From Thimphu to Punakha
Off in an eastern direction to the capital Thimphu on a sunny day.
There are frequent check points for cars to keep track of vehicle movements. Mindup says that it is in case someone does not return which seems to mean that a car could go over the side of one of those high passes and never be seen again – a jolly, reassuring thought as the road is narrow and there are gullies on the one side and a very deep gorge along most of the other side. It is rare to see the bottom. The sights of the Bhutan Himalayas are absolutely panoramic.

There are oak and blue pine trees, cypress and fir and they grow to a great height. The first rhododendrons are already in bloom with red or white blossoms and they are as tall as trees. The primroses are pale purple rather like crocuses and they have a different petal to ours. The guide is so nice and knowledgeable, today he gave me a gift of a book on the wildflowers here and also a notebook with hand made paper to note my impressions of our trip. The picture is of one of the water powered prayer wheels that are scattered around the country.
In the capital we visited the “fortress of the glorious” or Tashichhodzong. This is the House of Parliament and the king has an office there and the ministries. It is also the summer residence of the Central Monk Body. The palace of the 5th King is close by so he can walk to his office. One is not allowed to even take a picture of his gate.
23 Feb.’10
Today we went from Thimphu to Punakha for the big festival that lasts a week. On the way we drove through the Dochula Pass (3,140M). Each pass is marked by a large array of prayer flags and with 108 Chortens or Stupas. The festival is held at a huge Dzong that is located at the junction of 2 rivers. As usual the dzong serves as the religious and administrative centre of the region. The whole area has a holiday for the week of the festival and they come from miles away the majority of them on foot. All are dressed in their best traditional costumes and it is most colourful. The festival is commemorating a victory over the Tibetan military in the 1600s and there are warriors shouting battle cries, guns being fired, defiant soldiers doing a dance, fierce looking men on horseback helped by many young men as the horses react to the gunfire. The monks took part of course and there was a huge procession. Do have a glance at the photo album. The pictures and faces tell the story.
Tonight we moved in to a really nice hotel, the Dewachen, to be near very nice people from Canada that we had met several times along the road at lunch, the festival etc. They have vineyards in B.C. The hotel has wood fires in each room and in the dining room and is most cheerful. I loved being with people again after several hotels that had no other guests as this is the off season and it gets very cold morning and night although the days are bright and sunny so it was great to have the wood burning fire. We sat around it sharing some imported wine and felt like we were on holidays. Almost everything in Bhutan has to be imported as they don’t produce much other than potatoes, buckwheat, barley and chilies. The people are very self sufficient and agile. They hop up and down almost invisible paths to heights that seem inaccessible, the children help with all household chores and the women weave and make their own clothes, tablecloths, floor and seat covers and bedding.
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From Paro to Thimpu

Up bright and far too early we set off on our way to Thimpu via the Haa Valley.

This road took us over the Chele La Pass. At a height of 3988M it is the highest motorable road in Bhutan. Majestic views of mountains and valleys including the highest revered peak Jhomolhari covered with snow. Kila Nunnery, reputedly the oldest nunnery in Bhutan was founded in the 9th century as a meditation centre and 32 nuns are still in residence perched way up in the mountains. You wouldn't want to run out of essentials up there. I commented that there wouldn't be much more to do than meditate but Mindup gently said that they "might have boy friends" The lovely hotel that I stayed in last night was owned by a high ranking monk who is supported by many followers in the States especially. It seems that it is not at all unusual for monks to own property and with the money they help students according to Mindup.

Had lunch in the lovely traditional little town of Haa. The absence of traffic is surprising after just leaving Kathmandu. Each town has its protecting deities and stupas and more tales of Gods, demons and conquerors than I can keep sorted out. The sun shines daily but the mornings and evenings are still very cold.

Tonight arrived in the capital Thimpu where the 5th King lives just beside the main House of Parliament. It is small for a capital city and built of traditional architecture. There are no traffic lights in Bhutan at all but here there is a tiny police traffic cop waving his arms in a most unusual way almost dancing. The cars seem to understand him.

I am staying in a resort hotel above the town. Old and mainly of wood it is full of character. Again I am the only one in the dining room. It is definitely out of season. I am told that the other guests are too cold and are eating in their rooms. They are from India. The staff are gentle and lovely. Nothing is too much trouble. I actually have a living room and a bedroom and it is very large with a balcony overlooking the town and all its lights. Will put in a picture. The kind people have put a heater in each room and a thermos of hot water. There is a place for a traditional hot stone bath on the terrace. It is used just like an old "Fulach Fiadh" in Ireland where huge stones are heated in a fire and then put in a stone bath. I didn't want the staff to have to heat up the stones over a wood fire just for me but otherwise would have tried it out:)

Arrival in Bhutan.

MINDUP in traditional men's dress, a Gho. He's adjusting the manditory scarf worn in the same fashion by all men entering a Dzong or holy place.

BHUTAN – LAND OF THE THUNDER DRAGON

First day in this country that I have wanted to visit as long as I can remember Bhutan is one of the rare places on earth where compassion is favoured over capitalism. They strictly regulate tourism and want low impact, high value visitors who respect the tenets of Buddhism and its unique culture. Every aspect of daily life is shaped by Buddhist beliefs and aspirations. Prayer flags fly everywhere. Prayer wheels are whirled, people prostrate themselves towards images of the Buddha and other numerous religious figures, people smile gently and most can speak English.

I had a scare this morning in Kathmandu when a knock came on the door at 5 am saying that there was a strike and I had better leave for the airport although my plane was not due until 0945. However, dutifully, I got ready quickly and rushed downstairs to go via rickshaw to a place where there would be a tourist bus only to find that there would indeed be taxis until 0900. That’s Nepal where the strike will last 2 days and mainly tourists and business people will suffer on top of their having so little electricity, water etc. In fact the strike is because of the above but there is no way that the situation can improve until after monsoon season at the earliest.
Spent hours at the airport but did take off around 10 am and did get a window seat on the left side of the plane (albeit over the wing) so that I could see all the majestic mountains on the way – see photo album example. The pilots must be very experienced to fly so close to the peaks.
It was so great to land and see the lovely airport in the traditional architecture with my guide Mindup waiting in traditional Gho from which he produced the famous welcoming white scarf. I never get a guide or go on a tour so it feels like being spoiled to have such attention. Of course here one must have a driver/guide. The sun was shining, the sky was blue, the car was very nice so all was perfect. Mindup has great English, a lovely smile and is just gorgeous looking. How nice to have lots of time and meals together for 2 weeks. It could have been very different. He’s a devout Buddist, most sincere and loves his job. I am lucky to have him as he owns the company and has several other guides but in correspondence he decided to do it himself since we are both in the same field. Thats a picture of him above.
Paro is in a beautiful valley overlooked by Mt Jhomolhari which is over 7000 M. We had lunch in town and strolled along the wide very clean main street along all the little shops in the traditional wooden style. There's photos in the album. Men, women and children are mainly in their traditional dress. Today was the Kings 30th birthday and all the Bhutanese are mad about him so there is a 3 day holiday in his honour. I was told that he is most honourable, compassionate and kind just as his father is. They both visited homes of people who suffered in the earthquake last year and gave money to victims and helped in costs of rebuilding. Because of the occasion flags were flying, girls were dancing and there were competitions in the national sport, archery, In between each archer taking his turn there was singing around the target and when an arrow (from a very long distance) hit the target the men did a dance. The bows are huge and very powerful.
We visited the main Paro Dzong or Monastery. Dzongs were once fortresses and this one was built in 1646. The approach was via a wonderful cantilevered bridge. There are so many legends and history attached to these Dzongs and their murals and Mindup is a fountain of knowledge and interest in Buddism and explains so well. This is where the Bertolocci film "The Little Buddha" was filmed. We also went to one of the oldest monasteries in the country built in 659 - a wonderful place of tranquility and traditional style with trees laden with oranges, statues full of mythology, stories galore and on this day full of monks chanting out of huge, thick, Tibetan style parchment held together in rectangular book form and wrapped in orange cloth. Very young novices were chanting and bowing with enthusiasm.
I am staying in a lovely hotel again built in traditional style which is very ornamental with separate houses holding 4 rooms each best described by a picture. The nicest thing about it is the wonderful view of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery high up in the mountains. It takes 3 hours to climb up and 2 to come down. A Guru landed there on the back of a tiger in the 8th century and meditated for 3 months so it is an important site for pilgrimage. I know that the views from there are wonderful but we are headed for the festival in Punakka and anyway I don’t know if I could still manage the climb. It is very hard even going up a lot of steps here at this high altitude and men have told me that they found it most strenuous so maybe I’m glad that we are pushing on in the morning.
Unusually we are the only guests here but enjoyed dinner with Mindup and our driver Cherub. There are many dishes served at both lunch and supper including fresh veg so that’s fine although nothing stands out especially. Bhutanese do not kill animals so if one eats meat it is probably imported from India. It seems they can eat meat as long as they don’t kill the animal. The overall impression here is one of gentleness, friendliness, fairness and ready laughter.

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