THIMPHU TO PUNAKHA

A typical sign giving advice against contacting HIV and avoiding alcohol

From Thimphu to Punakha
Off in an eastern direction to the capital Thimphu on a sunny day.
There are frequent check points for cars to keep track of vehicle movements. Mindup says that it is in case someone does not return which seems to mean that a car could go over the side of one of those high passes and never be seen again – a jolly, reassuring thought as the road is narrow and there are gullies on the one side and a very deep gorge along most of the other side. It is rare to see the bottom. The sights of the Bhutan Himalayas are absolutely panoramic.

There are oak and blue pine trees, cypress and fir and they grow to a great height. The first rhododendrons are already in bloom with red or white blossoms and they are as tall as trees. The primroses are pale purple rather like crocuses and they have a different petal to ours. The guide is so nice and knowledgeable, today he gave me a gift of a book on the wildflowers here and also a notebook with hand made paper to note my impressions of our trip. The picture is of one of the water powered prayer wheels that are scattered around the country.
In the capital we visited the “fortress of the glorious” or Tashichhodzong. This is the House of Parliament and the king has an office there and the ministries. It is also the summer residence of the Central Monk Body. The palace of the 5th King is close by so he can walk to his office. One is not allowed to even take a picture of his gate.
23 Feb.’10
Today we went from Thimphu to Punakha for the big festival that lasts a week. On the way we drove through the Dochula Pass (3,140M). Each pass is marked by a large array of prayer flags and with 108 Chortens or Stupas. The festival is held at a huge Dzong that is located at the junction of 2 rivers. As usual the dzong serves as the religious and administrative centre of the region. The whole area has a holiday for the week of the festival and they come from miles away the majority of them on foot. All are dressed in their best traditional costumes and it is most colourful. The festival is commemorating a victory over the Tibetan military in the 1600s and there are warriors shouting battle cries, guns being fired, defiant soldiers doing a dance, fierce looking men on horseback helped by many young men as the horses react to the gunfire. The monks took part of course and there was a huge procession. Do have a glance at the photo album. The pictures and faces tell the story.
Tonight we moved in to a really nice hotel, the Dewachen, to be near very nice people from Canada that we had met several times along the road at lunch, the festival etc. They have vineyards in B.C. The hotel has wood fires in each room and in the dining room and is most cheerful. I loved being with people again after several hotels that had no other guests as this is the off season and it gets very cold morning and night although the days are bright and sunny so it was great to have the wood burning fire. We sat around it sharing some imported wine and felt like we were on holidays. Almost everything in Bhutan has to be imported as they don’t produce much other than potatoes, buckwheat, barley and chilies. The people are very self sufficient and agile. They hop up and down almost invisible paths to heights that seem inaccessible, the children help with all household chores and the women weave and make their own clothes, tablecloths, floor and seat covers and bedding.
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From Paro to Thimpu

Up bright and far too early we set off on our way to Thimpu via the Haa Valley.

This road took us over the Chele La Pass. At a height of 3988M it is the highest motorable road in Bhutan. Majestic views of mountains and valleys including the highest revered peak Jhomolhari covered with snow. Kila Nunnery, reputedly the oldest nunnery in Bhutan was founded in the 9th century as a meditation centre and 32 nuns are still in residence perched way up in the mountains. You wouldn't want to run out of essentials up there. I commented that there wouldn't be much more to do than meditate but Mindup gently said that they "might have boy friends" The lovely hotel that I stayed in last night was owned by a high ranking monk who is supported by many followers in the States especially. It seems that it is not at all unusual for monks to own property and with the money they help students according to Mindup.

Had lunch in the lovely traditional little town of Haa. The absence of traffic is surprising after just leaving Kathmandu. Each town has its protecting deities and stupas and more tales of Gods, demons and conquerors than I can keep sorted out. The sun shines daily but the mornings and evenings are still very cold.

Tonight arrived in the capital Thimpu where the 5th King lives just beside the main House of Parliament. It is small for a capital city and built of traditional architecture. There are no traffic lights in Bhutan at all but here there is a tiny police traffic cop waving his arms in a most unusual way almost dancing. The cars seem to understand him.

I am staying in a resort hotel above the town. Old and mainly of wood it is full of character. Again I am the only one in the dining room. It is definitely out of season. I am told that the other guests are too cold and are eating in their rooms. They are from India. The staff are gentle and lovely. Nothing is too much trouble. I actually have a living room and a bedroom and it is very large with a balcony overlooking the town and all its lights. Will put in a picture. The kind people have put a heater in each room and a thermos of hot water. There is a place for a traditional hot stone bath on the terrace. It is used just like an old "Fulach Fiadh" in Ireland where huge stones are heated in a fire and then put in a stone bath. I didn't want the staff to have to heat up the stones over a wood fire just for me but otherwise would have tried it out:)

Arrival in Bhutan.

MINDUP in traditional men's dress, a Gho. He's adjusting the manditory scarf worn in the same fashion by all men entering a Dzong or holy place.

BHUTAN – LAND OF THE THUNDER DRAGON

First day in this country that I have wanted to visit as long as I can remember Bhutan is one of the rare places on earth where compassion is favoured over capitalism. They strictly regulate tourism and want low impact, high value visitors who respect the tenets of Buddhism and its unique culture. Every aspect of daily life is shaped by Buddhist beliefs and aspirations. Prayer flags fly everywhere. Prayer wheels are whirled, people prostrate themselves towards images of the Buddha and other numerous religious figures, people smile gently and most can speak English.

I had a scare this morning in Kathmandu when a knock came on the door at 5 am saying that there was a strike and I had better leave for the airport although my plane was not due until 0945. However, dutifully, I got ready quickly and rushed downstairs to go via rickshaw to a place where there would be a tourist bus only to find that there would indeed be taxis until 0900. That’s Nepal where the strike will last 2 days and mainly tourists and business people will suffer on top of their having so little electricity, water etc. In fact the strike is because of the above but there is no way that the situation can improve until after monsoon season at the earliest.
Spent hours at the airport but did take off around 10 am and did get a window seat on the left side of the plane (albeit over the wing) so that I could see all the majestic mountains on the way – see photo album example. The pilots must be very experienced to fly so close to the peaks.
It was so great to land and see the lovely airport in the traditional architecture with my guide Mindup waiting in traditional Gho from which he produced the famous welcoming white scarf. I never get a guide or go on a tour so it feels like being spoiled to have such attention. Of course here one must have a driver/guide. The sun was shining, the sky was blue, the car was very nice so all was perfect. Mindup has great English, a lovely smile and is just gorgeous looking. How nice to have lots of time and meals together for 2 weeks. It could have been very different. He’s a devout Buddist, most sincere and loves his job. I am lucky to have him as he owns the company and has several other guides but in correspondence he decided to do it himself since we are both in the same field. Thats a picture of him above.
Paro is in a beautiful valley overlooked by Mt Jhomolhari which is over 7000 M. We had lunch in town and strolled along the wide very clean main street along all the little shops in the traditional wooden style. There's photos in the album. Men, women and children are mainly in their traditional dress. Today was the Kings 30th birthday and all the Bhutanese are mad about him so there is a 3 day holiday in his honour. I was told that he is most honourable, compassionate and kind just as his father is. They both visited homes of people who suffered in the earthquake last year and gave money to victims and helped in costs of rebuilding. Because of the occasion flags were flying, girls were dancing and there were competitions in the national sport, archery, In between each archer taking his turn there was singing around the target and when an arrow (from a very long distance) hit the target the men did a dance. The bows are huge and very powerful.
We visited the main Paro Dzong or Monastery. Dzongs were once fortresses and this one was built in 1646. The approach was via a wonderful cantilevered bridge. There are so many legends and history attached to these Dzongs and their murals and Mindup is a fountain of knowledge and interest in Buddism and explains so well. This is where the Bertolocci film "The Little Buddha" was filmed. We also went to one of the oldest monasteries in the country built in 659 - a wonderful place of tranquility and traditional style with trees laden with oranges, statues full of mythology, stories galore and on this day full of monks chanting out of huge, thick, Tibetan style parchment held together in rectangular book form and wrapped in orange cloth. Very young novices were chanting and bowing with enthusiasm.
I am staying in a lovely hotel again built in traditional style which is very ornamental with separate houses holding 4 rooms each best described by a picture. The nicest thing about it is the wonderful view of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery high up in the mountains. It takes 3 hours to climb up and 2 to come down. A Guru landed there on the back of a tiger in the 8th century and meditated for 3 months so it is an important site for pilgrimage. I know that the views from there are wonderful but we are headed for the festival in Punakka and anyway I don’t know if I could still manage the climb. It is very hard even going up a lot of steps here at this high altitude and men have told me that they found it most strenuous so maybe I’m glad that we are pushing on in the morning.
Unusually we are the only guests here but enjoyed dinner with Mindup and our driver Cherub. There are many dishes served at both lunch and supper including fresh veg so that’s fine although nothing stands out especially. Bhutanese do not kill animals so if one eats meat it is probably imported from India. It seems they can eat meat as long as they don’t kill the animal. The overall impression here is one of gentleness, friendliness, fairness and ready laughter.

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Monkey Temple, Kathmandu

Walked to the Monkey Temple on a fine morning here. The way took me alongside the river and was looking forward to it until I saw that it was used completely as a landfill area. Garbage, trash of all kinds, burning, animals rooting in the mess and people trying to salvage what they could out of it. The owner of the hotel here said that when he was a boy he was able to swim in that river but the population of the city increased so swiftly and life here is so hard that there is just no way of controlling the filth.

The pictures of the temple show the many steps up. Have to admit I rested a few times on the way. Monkeys are running all around the place and the usual temple dogs are lying all around.

This is the last few words from Nepal as have only one day left here. With all its problems the main memory for me will be the very nice people here. It is a very dynamic city, full of colour and overrun with traffic. One feels that there is just no room for pedestrians at many times of the day. The rickshaws, motor bikes, cars, taxis and bicycles have to swerve and brake constantly. They must be great drivers. Although there is dust and dirt everywhere and one walks through soil and debris the woman in their saris and Tibethan dress look beautiful with rugs or schawls thrown around their shoulders instead of coats in the chilly mornings and nights. It is sad to see how many woman are laden down with huge baskets on their backs assisted by a band around their head. They carry loads that would be a lot for a beast of burden. I watched a man loading concrete slabs in to one and then the woman staggered up a steep path followed by many others. Still the man in front of me today was singing as he walked and also a young boy near me yesterday. Even with all the aid poured in to Nepal the money does not seem to reach the people.

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BANDIPUR

This picturesque town is situated on a dramatic ridge at an elevation equal to the highest mountain peak in Ireland.

It was once settled by Nawari traders and is a perfect place to see how it was to live in a Newari village in medieval times before the advent of concrete. A group named Himalayan adventures has restored old inns in this and another village and they have worked to give the villagers a sense of pride in their place so this village is quiet, no horns blowing, very little trash and various signs encourage people not to litter and spit. See photo above that shows greeting upon arrival:)

There was a rather hair raising ride up in an overcrowded jeep like bus with people hanging on to the back as the jeep like bus tore around the curves on a very narrow road with a VERY steep drop although the views of the Himalaya range were breath taking too. I was lucky to be inside from where I took this picture.
The old inn is just beautiful with it's tiny doors and windows all carved out of wood, meandering halls and corners, lovely terrace overlooking the majestic mountains still covered in snow. It is, of course, a bit expensive to stay there so I went to a home stay next door also in a very old house but one could still enjoy the inn for drinks, food etc.
There's little to do except walk through the winding hilly streets and see how people live. Groups of women washing clothes in large basins in a designated spot where there is a tank holding water. Young men playing a game rather like pool except they are pushing pieces the size of checkers around on a chalked table and it has holes like a pool table. Men play cards in various corners and women are combing their lovely long hair or their daughters are doing it for them or friends are combing each others hair. All are walking or chatting with their arms around each other or linking arms or hands. It is especially noticable that families are very close and that Dad's play a lot with their children.
Met some really nice people and shared wine and a meal with them on the terrace of the old inn. A fire was lit outdoors against the cool of the night and it was very cosy in the candlelight as the host put a candlebra on the table since there was no light of course.

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My Shan Burmese "son" Sai Or

These are a few pictures of the young man I wrote about in my emails Sai Or
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POKKARA

POKKARA and the Himalayas

Arriving in Pokkara from Kathmandu was like a taste of heaven. Left the city in heavy rain and came to this peaceful place situated on lakes with the snow capped Himalayas all around. On the long bus ride the general air leaving Kathmandu was one of shabbyness. Plastic sheets constituted the awnings, the walls and the curtains of most of the shacks, shops and houses. The trees and bushes were white and dusty. Gradually the landscape became greener. Ovens in front of houses and restaurants were fashioned from red clay - big practical platforms with ledges for pots and pans - wood was burning in a large opening below while openings on top allowed the heat to do the cooking. Houses were built of the usual concrete but gradually many were made of local stone and those of brick were plastered and colour began to appear mainly terracotta and blue. The disturbing thing in Nepal is the mess along each road and in front of every living area. The ground is not paved and is a mess of scrub, dirt, rocks, sand, stones large and small, rusting pipes, big potholes, tubes, bricks and logs plus cows, buffalo, goats, rubble, dogs, squatting people, children, women washing clothes, men washing themselves and general dirt, plastic, trash, hens and motor bikes and jeeps.
It is very interesting to see how the bus boys work. They hang out of the side of the bus and shout out the destination to everyone who is standing or squatting along the route. Regardless of how full the bus is already, more are encouraged to board until it is absolutely jam packed. Stools are placed in the aisles, people stand uncomplainingly almost on top of each other, they hang off the sides and back while the bus jolts and bumps along. One bang on the bus side means stop to the driver for yet more customers or to allow some off. Two bangs mean go. The boy is meanwhile taking money and often has to run to catch up with the bus again.
Along the roads haystacks looked very high until I realised that they were raised on platforms and built around a pole. I suppose for faster drying.
The rain stopped as we arrived, we being a nice Chinese girl named Jessie who was on the same bus. We found a nice guest house where it is much warmer than in Kathmandu and there are light filled rooms and even hot water sometimes. I had a great warm shower immediately. Buildings in the city are so close together that the view from the window is often a brick wall so that makes places very dark especially without electricity.
The weather was gorgeous after the rain, blue skies and sun. We had a bit of a climb yesterday to the Peace Pagoda overlooking the town. It was steep but the views were great and we took a boat across the lake to get there. This was a place that was discovered by all the hippies back in the good old days and they hung out here for months “finding themselves” It is touristy in the way that everyone here is looking out for trekking the Himalayas, learning how to be instructors of Paragliding, gliding with vultures etc. The Annapurna Circuit takes 20 days of trekking but there are also shorter options. There are lots of bars, restaurants, guest houses and cafes and the competition keeps prices down a bit. There’s not much traffic so it is lovely and quiet. The Newari people are the majority and they are really kind and have beautiful smiles.
Still it is sad to see that foreigners are only viewed a bit like an ATM machine. Even little children have a go at asking for a pen, rupees or sweets.
Yesterday morning was a real highlight for me. Decided to take advantage of the wonderful views and go Paragliding. It was terrific with a really competent pilot just floating along in the air over the lake with the mountain peaks glistening in the sun and the lake below. Up there among the birds. I loved it. Hope to upload a few pictures taken in the air.
Today I rented a bike and explored the area for a while although it rained quite a lot this morning. Today in Kathmandu is the start of the biggest Hindu festival of the year named Mahashivaratri and over 600,000 Pilgrims are expected there. There will be Sadhus selling Marijuana joints for around a euro a stick as an offering to the Lord Shiva abnd Naga Babas who are nude medicants who give out blessings. I'm sure you've all seen pictures of them with faces whitened and body paint. It will cost the city 1.3 million rupees for their food and shelter. Typically woman line up at the temple and attend in the day and the men go at night and get stoned. Here in Pokkara it is a much smaller affair. Right now close to where I am writing this there is a big bonfire and women are dressed in their lovliest saris and everyone is thrusting long sugar canes in to the fire and causing loud bangs and bits of cane flying all around the place. Today many women were walking around with their prayer beads and some of them were dancing around quite alone. Hindi's are very devout and say God bless you many times. As a Nepali said to me today "Hindus have more Gods and Godesses than the population of Nepal.

I will start back towards Kathmandu tomorrow hopefully spending a night in a tiny, unspoiled village on the way if I can get transport to it. Of course there will also be the hope that I can leave there on Sunday and return to Kathmandu as it is up a mountain and there is no direct transportation. Thats travel and the fun of it.
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