Campismo in Ohlao

Had a very nice time in the Olhao Campsite where prices are most reasonable especially now in low season.  It was very sociable with so many residents who live there for 6 months a year and they have drinks together around 5 pm daily and go out for lunches etc.   I was included in several of the happy times but forgot to take pictures so only have one and there's only a few of them in it.  Had a good time riding my bike in to the town many times.  Traffic is much less than in Chiang Mai so it really feels good to go exploring.
Now taking off along the Algarve coast and in to the interior   Love the freshness of the trees just beginning to get leafy and green.  Although the earth is red there's lots of green and hundreds of wild flowers so the horses in the fields are up to their bellies in white and yellow daisies and red poppies

FARO

I decided to take a train to Faro rather than going in the VW and looking for parking although I find the traffic in Portugal is much less than I expected.  Faro has a lovely Centro Historico entered via an impressive arch way and surrounded by walls.  Every street is cobblestoned and the Cathedral plaza is very large and lovely with a bishops palace on one side.
Walked around the city afterwards and met a nice Irish chap who came along for a visit to the church of the bones.  Apparently there was a cemetery surrounding the church and when it was being renovated it was decided to honour the dead monks by placing their bones and skulls all around a small chapel.  I don't know if they would feel honoured if they could comment on their crumbling nostrils and craniums today or not.  The church is small and extremely ornate see the picture below.

entry arch to old city

cathedral

bishops palace

chapel of the skulls

ornate main chapel

CULATRA ISLAND

I had a lovely Easter Monday going over to a nearby island for a nice walk along through a fishing village where men were mending their nets.  The beach was empty and 3 kms long so had a good stroll.  The island is a haven for migrating birds although they mostly arrive in late evening so I only saw storks and seagulls today.  I met a really nice Polish family on the way over and we strolled and lunched together.

windy crossing to island

bones of a boat in a fisherman's yard

good beach walk with Monica the attractive Polish girl 

net mending stopped for lunch

OLHAO and Fuseta

Went to see Olhao and ended up staying there for Easter.  At a good campsite with many congenial people around moat of whom have lived here all winter.  The port is large with many islands around and the fish Mercado is huge.  The  Portuguese are so nice, usually laughing and friendly.  There was a large market beside the water today, fun and jokes at most stalls, spring flowers in bloom.
Yesterday my nice Swedish neighbours invited me to go with them in their car to another grand little village named Fusseta where we strolled by the beach and had a lunch of grilled fish.  I don't think that there is a village along this coast that is not lovely

Olhao

At the market on quay

flower and plant selller

mixed fish dinner 7 euros

large mercado selling only fish

TAVIRA AND AREA

Came across a very nice campsite on my road 5 kms before Tavira named Campismo Ria Formosa in Cabanas.  A surprising amount of people seem to stay here for months during winter from Oct to April.  Mainly from England they either stay in their Mobil Homes or rent a Static one on site and sometimes rent a cabin.  Many of them have gardens and are quite settled.  It makes sense with temps falling rarely below 9 degrees, hot showers, many amenities and good company.  They make friends and meet mornings for coffee, later for lunch and of course go out in the evenings.  Affordable and pleasant.  Most people have their bikes and many have a Smart Car for outings.  There is a railway station a few minutes away with trains over to Spain or up to Faro etc.
Spent a day over in Tavira a nice town with a large river and several bridges including a Roman one.  There are many beaches nearby of course but this week is not beach weather with frequent rain showers and not that warm.  The bridge was strewn with herbs and little purple flowers so it smelt lovely to walk on it.  I think it was from the churches on Sunday as I saw many women carrying those little bouquets as they went for their after Mass coffee or juice.  Walked up to the castle gardens already in bloom.

Castro Marim

The first little town right over the border from Spain is just lovely.  Tiny white houses with varied coloured trim.  Large salt flats and a castle dominating the tiny town.  I spent the night here happy to be in Portugal at last and it looks like I expected it to be.  Had a lovely walk up to the castle in sunshine even though there are rain clouds around.  A good museum there on excavations showing Roman and Phoenician periods of residency as well as Greek.

castle covered a huge area

SEVILLE

I finally made it to Seville.  I was told that the distance on foot from the campsite was only 1 km but actually it was so much more.  I was almost tired by the time I arrived.  Taking the bike would have been a much better option.  The architecture was just beautiful as I had expected.  The Moorish influence was everywhere.  I had not thought that Holy Week would have begun already but in fact everywhere was full of people and expectations.  Whole areas cordoned off and lines in churches to see the elaborate, enormous platforms that will be carried in the parades starting tomorrow Sunday 20th   They are so decorative and the figures of Christ, Madonnas and Saints are dressed in the most fantastic patterned clothes.  All is aglitter including all the shop windows with religious icons mixed with flamenco dresses and huge sales in flowers for the hair or hats with flowers.  Little girls running around dressed in white or pale blue long dresses while the fashion for boys is sailor suits that is suits for Commodores in creamy white or navy with epaulets and braid.  Excitement definitely in the air.

Alcazar

ready for the procession

Ornate robe on statue


I had to have the traditional Churros and hot chocolate of course

CACERES

I had not heard about this UNESCO town until I happened to camp nearby.  The campsite here is really well thought out with individual cabins on each site providing a really large bathroom.  Just like being in your Grannies.  Decided to spend Paddys Day in comfort so spent two nights.
Took a bus in to the city and walked to the historic Roman built historic centre.  Narrow streets, cobblestoned, towers, cathedrals above a spacious Plaza Major.  Settled there in the sun for a really good lunch of local specialties.
I went through a lovely old Arab house, kept in its original lovely form as a private museum.  The Moorish influence is so prevalent around these areas most particularly in the tiles on benches where old men sit for hours chatting.  They are reminiscent of those later constructed by Gaudi.  It's sad to realise the awful troubles in the Arab world today when one remembers their gracious hospitality and serene households.

Plaza Major

little garden in Arab house

ON THE ROAD

I drove through France fairly quickly.   Very few camping places are open and everything looks brown still. Too early for fresh green leaves.   Eventually found an open camp about half way down, there was a cold wind but Brandy is snug

Yesterday delighted to reach the Basque area.  Villages of white houses with red roof's and red trim.  The trees are pollarded so skilfully that they look like stark sculptures raising their limbs haphazardly in all directions.   Yet in summer they are in full leaf again.
Yesterday I drove until late.  No sign of camps or open hotels anywhere along my road.  I did sometimes go off following signs to villages without luck.  Finally got directions to a soul-less IBIS and slept like a log.
Today drove through the lovely St Jean de Luz.  Tempting to stop there but do want to reach Portugal soon so headed for Pamplona and Salamanca.   These parts look like Switzerland or ski villages in Austria.  The meadows area velvet green and there's still snow on the tops of mountains and valleys.  The houses scattered here and there could be easily chalets in the Sud Tyrol as could the gurgling streams of clear turbulent water with littles white caps swirling around rocks.   Love it
Now just after a big Spanish lunch at a popular truck stop.  Trying to be sensible and ordered water although a bottle of wine comes with the meal for the same price😊

UPDATE. 12 March 2016

Somehow it has been a long time since I've written this blog.   As usual months were spent and enjoyed in Thailand.  Christmas and New Years were over in Erie, Pa with Terry and family.   Just back from Thailand last week and now on the ferry to Cherbourg, France and from there I'm looking forward to driving to Portugal.   My VW California Brandy is parked on the upper deck having survived storage through the winter months and we're both ready for a new adventure.  I'm excited about Portugal.  It looks so colourful and has friendly people and great beaches that will not yet be over crowded since it's so early in season.  I've started trying to learn Portuguese online and realise that the difficulty will be in understanding the spoken word as the written language makes good sense.
On the road again.  Here's to new places and adventures. Hooray